BROWNELLS CUP TIP PUNCH MODEL 7 3MM (.118") DIAMETER/LONG LENGTH

Bought it to drive out a broken sig sp2340 firing pin positioning pin. The pin came out easy enough.



Hammering the new one back in though, the punch failed so fast it's useless and the pin didn't even get half way in. I dont' know what kind of steel this thing is made of but it might as well be pot metal.



The cup tip is now a convex tip so it can't even be held over the pin, on top of that because it failed so easily causing the metal to squish down and the punch to slam into the frame of my gun the finish on my sig pro which was immaculate is now marred, despite the claim that these keep your pins looking nice the top of my new pin i also ordered is a train wreck, AND i have to take it to a gun smith and spend the extra cash to drive that pin in because i don't have time to wait for a replacement before a shooting trip i got coming up.



If this isn't an unlucky bad punch, avoid at all costs. Will be seeing about getting my money back or a replacement if i just got a bad one.

the cup tip punch broke when driving out milspec AR15 triangle sight pins. They are tapered and I know I'm driving it out on the right side but this tool tip chipped off. It could have been made better as all the pins that is rounded head that I see on my pistols are all tapered, so a much stronger and durable cup-tipped punch would be right for the job.

Short version of Brownells brand punch used to start removal of P229 .40 cal firing pin retention pin from slide. Punch way too soft, located SIG a Armorer's kit with their version and out she came. Brownells steel is too soft. Try one yourself on a new P228/229/226/227, any of the classic pistols. I've only been a SIG certified Armorer at a Federal LE agency for six years, maybe I need more training and experience?

The pin is hollow and breaks easily. Not recommended.

Bought this to drive out a locking bolt pin on a S&W J-frame. Drove pin out but punch got stuck in the hole. I twisted the handle by hand and the pin came free of the handle. I had to use a smaller punch and drive it back out. Not impressed with the two piece design.
FYI: locking bolt pin .055; pin punch #1 .057

Makes short work of driving out those stubborn taper pins.

I used to use standard flat-tip steel punches but they'd always slip, sometimes marring the FSB or mushroom the pins.

Got one of these and most pins come out with a few whacks from a 12-oz hammer. Once and a while these find use on other round-head pins, but 99% of my use goes to AR-15 FSB/Gas Block taper pins.

Some of the newer P series pins are very tight and this punch won't slip off an gouge your slide. A must have for tearing down Sig P series slides.

A must for working on pre-1900 smith and wesson guns. Does leave a mark on the pin. Will purchase B set at a latter date.

Ordered A #2 punch because it was advertised for round end S&W pins. The punch did not fit the pin (too small) and it not only battered the pin but damaged the pin punch.

I decided to put rails on two barrels which meant I needed to remove the front sight base (FSB).I bought a punch set with brass and steel punches. I tried removing the FSB taper pins with the brass punches first. The punches deformed and rolled and I got a small speck of metal in my eye even though I was wearing glasses. Always wear safety glasses!Then I tried the steel punches. The little brass hammer I was using wasn't working. So I moved up to a regular hammer. I made some light taps, then medium hits and finally I started hitting the pins really hard. Nothing. They would not budge. The punch moved on some of the hits and marred the FSB. It was cosmetic but still it was annoying.After some serious hits the taper pin ends started to deform and flatten. I was in trouble. I'd read about stubborn pins. Eventually I had to use a dremel to grind down the FSB to remove the pins. I marred the barrel in three different places. Again, it was cosmetic but still very annoying.BTW, the FSB is unique to a barrel. If it's ruined it's very difficult to replace. You have to buy an undrilled FSB (they don't come pre-drilled), fill in the existing holes on your barrel so you can drill pilot holes and then tap them out for the pins. Yeah, now I know why I see so many bolt/screw on gasblocks.I decided to get the cup punch for my attempt on the second barrel. [...] Pricey to say the least but I was hoping it would allow me to remove the FSB without nicks or damage and without spending two hours grinding off the FSB.I supported the barrel with a section of 2x4 and and Brownell's cheap rifle bench block. I placed the 2x4 under the upper part of the FSB and under the back of the barrel. I supported the front of the barrel on the bench block. I held the punch in my left hand while using the side of my left hand to keep the sight pressing against the 2x4. I used a regular metal hammer. It took about 2 or 3 solid hits for each pin but they came out easy all things considered. Maybe the first barrel was one of the rare, troublesome barrels I've read about but I never want to do that again which is why I bought the punch.Good luck.